I was thinking of putting a grab bar in the powder room since the toilet is the traditional height and it’s one that is often used by guests.
I realized I didn’t know too much about grab bars except that they should be sturdy. I figured the sturdiest way to mount one would be in the wall studs. I had already located the studs (17.5 inches apart) to hang the chair rail.
After a little research I decided to hang a diagonal 24-inch chrome bar near the toilet. The topmost measurement should be not more than 42 inches. At a cost of less than $22 it arrived from Amazon in less than 2 days. Chrome to match the other fixtures in the room.
Sug and I had a bit of a time hanging it because only one screw on each end went into a stud. We used moly bolts for the the other holes.
Although the grab bar is not very attractive, it is a reasonable safety precaution and might save my towel bar from being pulled out of the wall (again).
Have you made accommodations for greater sturdiness in your home?
I had purchased an original 8-inch square oil painting while we were visiting Smith Island.
I was going to hang it in the powder room which used to be a “biblotheque” but is now “The Grand Tour” but the painting just looked too plain.
I had seen other paintings simply framed with a strip of wood on the sides as detailed in this YouTube video. I stopped by Lowe’s and bought an eight-foot piece (the smallest it comes) of 1/4″ by 1.5″ pine lattice which I planned to stain.
I had on hand some 1/4″ by 3/4″ screen door molding which I spray painted black.
The screen door molding was cut to 8-inch sections and nailed to the sides of the painting’s stretcher aligned with the back edge.
Then I applied the stained lattice to the top and bottom of the painting with small finish nails. The nails were recessed and the nail holes filled.
The side pieces of lattice were cut long enough to cover the ends of the top and bottom of the frame.
Now the painting is ready to hang in the “The Grand Tour” — a remembrance from our travels.
I was hoping to give you a wonderful tutorial on coping trim but alas we’re abject failures.
Su and I thought we had mastered the technique because we started by coping the shoe molding. Basically the end of a piece of molding is cut at a 45 degree angle then, with a coping saw, the rounded edge is cut out.
When that edge is laid over the right-angle piece at the corner it fits perfectly.
Having succeeded at the easy piece we tried to cope the wainscoting. We started with the hand saw method which left a sloppy joint.
I found a video on YouTube which did an entire coping job with a Dremel tool of which I have two. It looked easy enough.
Both Sug and Charlie tried their hands at Dremel coping. Then we all watched the video again.
Time was getting late and we had two more pieces of chair rail to install so I just cut 45 degree angles and nailed them up.
Unfortunately the walls in this tiny room are nowhere near 90 degrees so the molding left gaps at the corners.
Sug came to the rescue with wood putty which she jammed into the joints.
Then after the putty dried she painted the corners white like the other moldings.
Voila! Looks fine.
Can you cope?
Sidebar: Sug says coping is a skill she’s determined to learn. I bet she will.
Step 12 is one of the easy steps — hang the mirror.
I bought 2 new large hooks and nailed them into the same holes from where I had taken the old hooks. Although the hooks were firmly into the studs they were too high indicating they were not the same holes.
I could have moved the hooks lower but was afraid to mess up the wallpaper. Instead I lengthened the wires at the back of the mirror so it would hang a cell-phone’s-length lower.
The room’s 2 lights are reflected into the large mirror which brighten the room as if there were 4 lights.
Now that the toilet is set we’ve finished installing the baseboard.
Our baseboard is made up of a 1″ by 4″ board topped with ogee molding and fronted at its base with shoe molding.
We had measured and installed baseboard on the wall that would hold the toilet but had to pull it out to actually get the toilet in. After the toilet was installed the 1 by 4 and ogee slipped easily behind it so I’m glad we pre-cut it.
We had also precut the shoe molding but it had to be split on either side of the base of the toilet.
We’ll touch up the painting on the trim when everything is finished.
Unfortunately I didn’t have the wherewithal to take any photos of the process which was interesting because the old cast iron flange had to be chiseled out.
A new closet flange with a rubber gasket was laid into the hole first then screwed to the structure. Two spacers were laid on top of the closet flange and sealed with silicone which brought the level up to the floor level.
I pulled out the previously installed baseboard so the toilet would fit since its base was longer than the 1952 toilet that was previously in the space.