I described the beginning of the recushioning of the vintage dining room chairs here.
After finishing the webbing on the first frame I decided that I had used too much webbing and so reduced the remaining chairs to 2 vertical pieces and 2 horizontal pieces.
Next step is to cut and attach a fabric layer over the webbing.
Some sites call for burlap; I used unbleached cotton muslin.
Trace with a marker the outline of the seat frame onto 1-inch high density foam. I used foam that was already approximately the size of the seats. I laid the front edge of the seat frame against the edge of the foam so only three sides would need to be cut.
I carefully trimmed the excess with scissors. (My preferred method of cutting foam is an electric knife but I couldn’t find ours.)
On top of the foam a layer of batting is applied that is just a bit larger than the foam.
Finally a layer of the upholstery fabric is cut with enough excess to totally cover the top and sides of the cushion and be pulled to the underside for stapling. After the fabric is cut but before it’s applied is a good time to iron it.
Starting with the front put a staple in the middle of the upholstery fabric. Pull it taut to the back of the cushion and staple again near the center. Then do the same on both side making sure the fabric stays on the straight of grain.
Adjust the corners so they lie flat in a neat pleat.
Staple all around the perimeter of the fabric pulling taut to remove bubbles but not so tight as to pull on the bias.
Place the newly upholstered cushion into the chair.
The necessary tools are something with which to poke a hole (I used an Exacto knife), something to break up the egg yolk (I used a paper clip), and something to blow out the egg (I used an ear syringe).
First poke holes in each end of an egg with a pointy object. If you use a blade, after the hole is started continue gently or the egg will crack.
One hole should be larger than the other.
Using an unbent paper clip inserted in one of the holes, I broke up the yolk.
Place the syringe on the large hole (it need not be inserted in the hole) and gently squeeze. (You can also blow on the hole with your mouth if you don’t have a syringe.)
The white and then the yolk will run out the smaller hole. At the beginning the liquid might come out both holes.
Wash off the egg and let it dry. Now it’s ready for your project.
I have a lot of vintage linens that are “precious” and I don’t mean that in a nice way. They’re not my style; just too cute for me.
I decided to dye some of them. The rage now seems to be grey and indigo so I started with indigo.
The choices of dye are vast and it’s difficult to know exactly what color you’re going to end up with.
I stopped by JoAnn and picked up 2 bottles of liquid Rit dye: one in Navy and the other in Evening Blue. Going to The Rit Studio Guide was helpful to understand the undertones of each color. Navy has a violet (red) undertone while the evening blue has an aqua (green) undertone so I mixed the two to try and tone down (ha!) the undertones.
My recipe for indigo dye is 1 part navy to 2 parts evening blue. Mix the dye as recommended on the package.
I used my kitchen sink for dying and left the clean, pre-wetted articles in the hot dye bath for about 45 minutes stirring and swishing them around from time to time.
.After everything was well-colored I ran each item under cold water until the water ran clear.
After rinsing I wrapped the items in an old towel to absorb much of the water then threw them in the clothes dryer.
The thing I really like is that the colors of the embroidery have also been muted.
I can picture these sturdy embroidered cases in the décor now.
On January 28th we’re having a Soup Swap. I call my soup “Healthy Winter Warm-Up”, It’s not fancy; it’s not from a recipe; it just plain old soup. So here’s a tutorial.
There are some steps that can be shortcutted when there’s not enough time or energy for making a swappable version. I’ll note the steps that can be omitted with the caveat that the best soup is made from following all the directions.
Start with a chicken that has been roasted. Even a rotisserie chicken from the grocery store which has already provided a meal or two is a great candidate for making stock. (You can skip the roasting and use a raw chicken.)
To make basic chicken stock, in a large pot cover a chicken with water, bring to a boil and simmer for at least 2 hours. I also add large chunks of carrots, onion and celery. ( I generally discard the onions and celery and eat the carrots.) These vegetables should cook until all the taste has been transferred to the broth. Taste the broth for seasoning and richness at this point. The vegetables will add flavor but the stock should be delicious in its own right.
While the broth is cooking prepare the aromatic vegetables — onion, carrots, celery — to put into the soup.
When chopped these vegetables are called mirepoix (probably named in honour of C. P. G. F. de Lévis, Duke of Mirepoix, 18th-century French general) a most traditional flavor enhancer to all sorts of dishes, especially soups. (Mirepoix is pronounced meer-eh-pwah.)
Strain the broth from the chicken and vegetables. In the original pot cover the bottom with a thin layer of olive oil and add the mirepoix. (You may omit sauteing and add the vegetables directly to the broth.)
Since I had roasted the chicken before boiling it, in addition to the stock, I also had some liquid made by deglazing the roasting pan with chicken broth. In the following photo you can see the difference in color and richness of plain chicken stock and pan drippings.
Return all the stock — both light and dark — to the sweated mirepoix.
Add the remaining ingredients including the coarsely chopped chicken and simmer until the vegetables are tender.
When the other ingredients (fresh is best but in winter use what is available) have cooked transfer to individual quart containers to cool then freeze for the Soup Swap.
We found this old pine bench on the side of the road a number of years ago and have had it in various rooms including the cottage just for a convenient place to sit things (basically a moveable shelf).
You’ll notice it has a crack in the seat but other than that it’s in good shape. With a little protective coating I thought it might make a convenient place to sit in the garden.
Originally I thought I could just sand it and stain it.
I took the bench apart and Charlie reattached one of the small leg supports while I sanded and stained the bottom trestle with the same exterior stain as the shed.
Previously I had printed out on the computer the words “The Glade” in a large outlined font.
I scribbled with pencil on the back to create a kind of carbon paper.
Tape the letters to the bench and trace over them with a pen which will transfer the graphite to the wood as well as give a shallow indentation in the wood.
Remove the paper and paint in the logo. I used Minwax Deep Ocean stain which went on very smoothly with a small brush.
After painting on all the lettering . . .
Cover the bench seat with brown, oily stain using a rag.
Finally, I outlined the letters with black Sharpie and lightly sanded the top. Charlie prefers the letters outlined; I do not.
After the stain is fully dry cover the seat with a coat of protective polyurethane finish. (The bottom of the bench has exterior stain and needs no further protection.)
Have you started thinking about Spring? Can it come fast enough? Or are you content with winter?
I told you we were planning a Soup Swap here. Because this party requires preparation from the participants, a printed invitation is in order.
In a Word file on the Landscape setting I set 2 columns. In the left-hand column I entered the basic invitation and in the right-hand column the details of how a soup swap works. I used Executive size paper but you can use whatever you have, just be sure to make the correct setting.
(Our address and telephone number go right under “Location”.) To get soup graphics Google “soup” and click on images. You’ll have plenty of possible art for your invitation.
The cover which is printed on the reverse side of the same sheet of paper needs to be set up with the back on the left and the front on the right as below.
Make sure the cover side is printed so that the inside reads left to right when opened. If you’re like me you’ll make a few tries before it lines up correctly.