I described the beginning of the recushioning of the vintage dining room chairs here.
After finishing the webbing on the first frame I decided that I had used too much webbing and so reduced the remaining chairs to 2 vertical pieces and 2 horizontal pieces.
Next step is to cut and attach a fabric layer over the webbing.
Some sites call for burlap; I used unbleached cotton muslin.
Trace with a marker the outline of the seat frame onto 1-inch high density foam. I used foam that was already approximately the size of the seats. I laid the front edge of the seat frame against the edge of the foam so only three sides would need to be cut.
I carefully trimmed the excess with scissors. (My preferred method of cutting foam is an electric knife but I couldn’t find ours.)
On top of the foam a layer of batting is applied that is just a bit larger than the foam.
Finally a layer of the upholstery fabric is cut with enough excess to totally cover the top and sides of the cushion and be pulled to the underside for stapling. After the fabric is cut but before it’s applied is a good time to iron it.
Starting with the front put a staple in the middle of the upholstery fabric. Pull it taut to the back of the cushion and staple again near the center. Then do the same on both side making sure the fabric stays on the straight of grain.
Adjust the corners so they lie flat in a neat pleat.
Staple all around the perimeter of the fabric pulling taut to remove bubbles but not so tight as to pull on the bias.
Place the newly upholstered cushion into the chair.
The necessary tools are something with which to poke a hole (I used an Exacto knife), something to break up the egg yolk (I used a paper clip), and something to blow out the egg (I used an ear syringe).
First poke holes in each end of an egg with a pointy object. If you use a blade, after the hole is started continue gently or the egg will crack.
One hole should be larger than the other.
Using an unbent paper clip inserted in one of the holes, I broke up the yolk.
Place the syringe on the large hole (it need not be inserted in the hole) and gently squeeze. (You can also blow on the hole with your mouth if you don’t have a syringe.)
The white and then the yolk will run out the smaller hole. At the beginning the liquid might come out both holes.
Wash off the egg and let it dry. Now it’s ready for your project.
I have a lot of vintage linens that are “precious” and I don’t mean that in a nice way. They’re not my style; just too cute for me.
I decided to dye some of them. The rage now seems to be grey and indigo so I started with indigo.
The choices of dye are vast and it’s difficult to know exactly what color you’re going to end up with.
I stopped by JoAnn and picked up 2 bottles of liquid Rit dye: one in Navy and the other in Evening Blue. Going to The Rit Studio Guide was helpful to understand the undertones of each color. Navy has a violet (red) undertone while the evening blue has an aqua (green) undertone so I mixed the two to try and tone down (ha!) the undertones.
My recipe for indigo dye is 1 part navy to 2 parts evening blue. Mix the dye as recommended on the package.
I used my kitchen sink for dying and left the clean, pre-wetted articles in the hot dye bath for about 45 minutes stirring and swishing them around from time to time.
.After everything was well-colored I ran each item under cold water until the water ran clear.
After rinsing I wrapped the items in an old towel to absorb much of the water then threw them in the clothes dryer.
The thing I really like is that the colors of the embroidery have also been muted.
I can picture these sturdy embroidered cases in the décor now.